Shauna Eats Sunnyside

Awesome Indian in Woodside

Big ups to Sunnysider D, who recommended this next-‘hood-over Indian joint a block from the 61st St. train station!

B and I have hit cozy and authentic Masala Indian Cuisine (61st St. b/w 39th Ave. and Roosevelt) not once, but twice in the past few weeks, and our newly annointed “go-to spice hut” has proven exceedingly gangsta with econo-sized bottles of Taj, a colorful posse of heat-packing condiments, and the naan to end all garlic naan (at least for now).

Masala is a tried-and-true borough haunt. Open for 16 years, the family-owned restaurant has taken on various incarnations in our very own Sunnyside (as Empire of India) and Maspeth (ughhhh…Maspeth) before dropping trow on its current block in ‘05. With a large local Irish clientele, meals are simple, well-executed, and expertly seasoned (as D puts it, “the chef has a light touch”). Less is more, and the vast, aromatic flavor spectrum is worth the trip, alone.

Door-to-door from Sunnyside via the 7 train + one-block walk, it took us about ten minutes. Service is on point: promptly upon entry, B and I were seated in a nestling booth, poured goblets of water, and our orders were taken. These people don’t mess around, but it never feels rushed—just courteous and efficient.

The rich, cinnamony interior with strategic splashes of brown and gold and two large $7 bottles of imported Taj Mahal (damn! that’s a good beer!) fueled the spice anticipation. We dug the modern ink-blot paintings (i saw faces; B saw milk past its expiration date), mellow vibe, and modest menu prices. With most curry dishes in the single digits and many entrees hovering in the $7.95-$11.95 range, it’s easy to rock traditional Indian without paying out the ass for it… and rock it, we shall.

We started with an order of poofy garlic naan and a huge bowl of spiced mulligatawny soup. The lentil soup with lemon circle is nicely pureed, with distinct, complex curry flavors swirling in every spoonful. And the naan. OH THE NAAN. We can’t say we’re entirely versed in the nuances of Indian cuisine, but I will say that this naan puts all others we’ve had to shame. Warm, crisp-edged, fluff-packed, generously garlicked—HEAVEN IN MAMA’S MOUTH.

What I’d like to do to Masala’s beautiful naan:

• Burrow into it and sleep for the winter
• Lay alongside it in bed and spoon
• Fashion it into a scarf and earmuffs
• Press it up against my face and sniff
• Bathe in it until my fingers are pickled
• Slip my feet into it in lieu of slippers
• Sheath myself in it for the next toga party

Four pieces, two people = two tongue-loving wedges per person.

Needless to say, we had to have more…

For our main, we split chicken tikka tandoori, a plate of seasoned okra, and sides of jasmine rice and chili naan. The tikka tandoori is grilled perfectly, moist and succulent white meat hunks and assorted vegness that pair nicely with an array of condiments (FYI, the first time we went to Masala we had to ask for the sauces. The second time, they were automatically brought to our table). My favorite drizzling agent was the syrup-sweet tamarind sauce. Pickled onions were standard and tasty, and tangy cilantro sauce was of acceptable thickness and heat.

The okra came as a surprise—unlike Tangra’s mushy, breaded offering, this fresh okra is expertly cooked to retain its green outer skin crunch with a softer interior texture and interspersed by shards of marinated onion. Spicy and considerable in table presence, Masala hits this veggie outta the park (it’s definitely worth foregoing a second meat dish).

Our chili naan was just as poofy, crisp, and knee-weakening as its garlic brethren, but wee slices of jalapeno jack up the POW! factor to an almost unbearable degree. It’s good, don’t get me wrong. And we like heat. But hand-sprinkled toppings will always coat unevenly, so one bite of the chili naan is delightful and the next could be crippling. Proceed at your own risk; if your entrees are mild, this might prove a classy accompaniment.

Post-meal, we still had enough take-home grub to feed us regally the next night, and we were currently stuffed to the seams (though not in that “what tha hell did we just do to ourselves” kind of way) and digested over a piping cup of chai tea. I found the chai tea not as strong as I would have liked, though its smooth delicacy is ultimately soothing.

Also of note: Masala’s super-convenient hours, 12 to 11pm (7 days a week), make it easy on us late diners. And their number’s toll-free! Get the F outta here!

We’re all about this place. You should be, too.

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Masala Indian Restaurant
39-26 61st Street (b/w 39th Ave. and Roosevelt Ave.)
Woodside, NY 11377
(866) 370-9132