Shauna Eats Sunnyside

i live in sunnyside, queens. i like to eat.
shaunaeatssunnyside@gmail.com

Apr 10, 2008 2:16am

Why El Shater Will Rock Your World:

when B first moved to Sunnyside two years ago, he was aghast at the fact that i’d never been to el shater (on 43rd ave and 43rd street). a weathered green awning spanning the length of the corner store listing various forms of middle eastern delicacies, and the windows were crowded with colorful n’argiles, bins overflowing with imported pistachios and fresh dates the size of your hand, and trays of sweets baked fresh daily on the premises. warm olive-tinged air wafted out onto the streets and steamed the windows with a cozy, welcoming glow. for no good reason other than my own youthful ignorance, i had neglected to drag myself into this oasis of arabic food right in my own backyard.

B quickly made el shater his prime dining destination, coming home for one of our first feasts with $25 worth of meats, dips, desserts and drinks overloaded into plastic grocery bags. overwhelmed by the authentic, homemade quality of the crispy seasoned falafel, ground lamb and bulgur kibbe, and rose water and honey-marinated nut and cheese pastries, B and i promptly rounded out that introductory evening back in ‘06 with a little celebratory hookah action…

..and so it began.

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it’s become nearly impossible to quantify the onslaught of sights, tastes and smells that one encounters upon entering this middle eastern portal. lebanese owned, the brothers who run the joint boast huge smiles, quick wits, and nimble fingers that slab the juiciest, most tender and succulent schwarma this side of the east river. meat sandwiches go for a respectable $5, and are expertly rolled longways on flat pitas (B shuns the knockoff half-pita pocket alternative). on any given day, el shater hocks fresh platters of seasoned meat stews, bite-sized savory stuffed pies, tabbouleh/baba ghanoush/hummus by the pound, moist feta, marinated kebabs (grilled to order), bean salads, and spicy olives from a plentiful bar of pickling barrels. at a butcher’s counter in the rear, customers can order halal cuts of beef, bacon, and whole holiday turkeys, talons included for all you daredevils. the grocer section is stocked with a wide selection of nuts, grains, coffee beans, canned beans and jarred pickled veggies and fruits that taste way better than they smell.

**pay attention, hidden gems:

some of the richest lebanese-imported olive oils i’ve ever encountered, several with olive pulp still marinating in the base of the bottle

containers of creamy labne in the refrigerator section.. top with a dallop of high-end olive oil and a few grinds of sea salt to make your pita smile

$8.99/lb. imported pistachios (an old man on a bus to Jersey once told me, “taste-wise, they’ll beat your bullshit cali nuts any day of the week”)

fattoush, a simple veggie salad kicked up a notch with the money shot of olive oil, lemon juice, sumac, and toasted pita chips

the ultimate pastry, a slice of heaven in your mouth.. their homemade event specialty, katayef: mini lebanese pancakes folded around either sweet cheese or sugary walnut filling, deep-fried, then soaked in rose water and drizzled repeatedly with potent honey to create a crispy yet saturated melt-on-your-tongue-and-straight-into-your-fillings sensation.

last night, we feasted like the fiends that we are on a smorgasbord of falafel, kibbe, meat pies, tabbouleh, creamy hummus, spicy olives, grape leaves, and semolina pastries (with a can of vimto tacked on for good measure):

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